SEALER WEIGHTS AND APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS

Product Description

Steelike Gloss and Satin/Semi-Gloss kits are as follows:


These are the weights of the content only and do not include the jar or lid weight.
Part A- 135g
Part B- 135g
Part C- 135g
Part D- 20g DRY

Steelike Matte kits are:
Part A- 135g
Part B- 135g
Part C-1- 210g 
Part D- 43g DRY

When I released the Steelike Concrete Sealing System I made the statement that "Less is More". What I should have said is once it is dry less is more.

You need to get enough product down to initially quench the MicroPlush roller's thirst and then continue to spray product down so you get a uniform thickness over the entire piece. You know it's thick enough when the color pops uniformly
and the entire surface is wet.


Additionally you should see a football/basketball texture which shows you that enough product is down. You will be knocking said texture down AFTERWARDS by back rolling. But again, you first need enough sealer down to allow the chemistry to kick in. Remember, this sealer has a reactive aspect to it also.

NEVER use a HVLP gun for it will atomize the sealer and cause it to partially dry before it hits your surface, plus it can trap the anti-abrasion particles or cause them to be distributed incorrectly.

 

Unlike many sealers, and super glue, this system is not dependent on moisture to cure.  In other words it is water based not moisture cured. 

 

INSTRUCTIONS: 
I've been talking with, now over 100's of successful Steelike concrete sealing system installers. Their feedback is priceless.

TOOLS REQUIRED:

Wooster Micro Plush Roller Cover # RR314-6½”

Chapin Hand Held Pump Spray Bottle #1002 48oz. Red Top (REMOVE THE INLINE FILTER)

Wooster High Density Foam Roller Cover RR308-6.5 J-Koter (When two people are applying see below)

You can buy everything you need here or feel free to shop around but the exact Wooster Micro-plush Roller is crucial for application.

The best results are simple.

Apply with the Micro-Plush roller and back-roll with the high-density roller. Then create minor air flow over, not directly on, the piece.

1) Begin by weighing out the amount of the different parts of the Steelike Sealing System.

1a) Always add part A to B, mix for 1 minute with the included large Popsicle stick and move aside.

2)  Then add part D to part C and blend thoroughly. (Less than 30 seconds).

3) Combine everything together while mixing, and stir for 1 additional minute MAX.

4) Water is optional and you'll find that the denser your mix design, the less you need to add water. Stir in 10 -20% water by weight of PART C. Example: Gloss and Satin’s part C weighs 135 Grams so you would be adding 13-27 grams of water. 

NOTE: IF you're adding water, create some small samples and try starting at 10% and increase if you find you need more working time.  The water simply keeps the sealer from flashing off before you have time to remove the football/basketball texture you want to have when first applying to insure the proper thickness of sealer.  Don’t worry, you’ll be removing said texture during the back rolling phase to come.

5) While stirring, pour everything into the Chapin Spray Bottle and pump until you cannot pump with one finger.

6) Pick one spot approximately 2-3 square feet to begin applying. Always swirl the pump bottle while and before spraying…keep it moving.  Begin spraying while rolling this small area until the roller’s thirst is quenched.  This means the roller is no longer absorbing sealer and is beginning to push/spread sealer around versus removing it.

7) Once the roller is wet enough, continue spraying while rolling across your piece until the entire piece is uniformally wet and the color has popped the same.  It may look like a very thin layer of skim milk but not heavy cream.

8) At this point you should see a little football/basketball texture.  This means you have enough product down.

9) BACK-ROLLING:

Using the High Density Foam Roller, begin back-rolling.  Roll the entire length in rows then front to back.  Take the  roller and roll off excess sealer onto a flat micro cloth or extremely lint free cloth. Now go back to your piece and begin back rolling in long strokes first length wise and then front to back.  Again roll excess sealer that you are picking up with the roller onto the cloth. The more you back roll the less pressure you will be applying until your last roll which will just be the weight of the roller itself.

10) Your done, do not try to pick out hair, a bug or reroll any small shallow roller lines.  If you applied it as described above any roller lines will go away the next day.

11) Place a low velocity fan as to create a slow moving blanket of air OVER the piece not blasting air ON the piece.

 

 

Very important things to remember:


1) Mixing time of 1 minute of part A with B is important, not 2, 3 minutes. One minute. Remember, it's going to be sitting/activating for additional time while you are mixing the dry part D into C so one minute maximum. 
TOTAL MIXING TIME = 3 Minutes Maximum

So you mix part A and B for 1 minute then C and D for under 1 minute, combine everything, add water then you have 30-40 minutes to spray, roll, roll excess onto a flat, lint free microfiber cloth and then back roll off excess sealer.

How do I know how much Steelike concrete sealing system to apply?

Answer: QUENCH THE ROLLER'S THIRST BEFORE CONTINUING BEYOND THE FIRST 3(THREE) SQUARE FEET.
You want to be spraying enough down initially to quench the thirst of the MicroPlush. Do this in a small area, like 3 square feet. Once the MicroPlush roller is distributing/ moving product versus removing it continue spraying while rolling until the entire piece until it is uniformly wet and has a football/basketball texture. It may even have a white low fat milky look to it.

Now it's thick enough.

Now you will be focusing on flatting/removing the excess/textured sealer by, with the same roller, rolling off the excess sealer that has accumulated on the roller. Do this on the flat microfiber cloth as I described above.

NOTE: When you’re at the removing texture stage you want to be fluidly rolling across the entire piece, first length wise and then front to back. Do this slowly and deliberately. Again, long slow strokes not rapid back a fourth rolling.

At this stage, the more you roll the less pressure you will be applying.

Don't create train tracks by pressing too hard and then chasing them etc.

The very slight pressure and rolling off excess sealer will distribute and remove the correct amount of sealer.

A fellow artisan is having success having two people applying. He sprays and distributes the sealer as described above while another person back rolls with the 6.5" high density roller. He did this on a reseal of an existing piece after removing the original failing sealer but this method sounds promising for newly created pieces also. Being a one man show I've never tried this approach.

What about air moving?

Never have hot or otherwise any strong currents of air blowing on the piece while applying Steelike. However, when you’re done applying you want to get a small current moving OVER the piece.

What if I see faint roller edge lines?

If you applied it as described above and said lines are very shallow/short in appearance, they will lay down, flatten out and disappear the next day.

As always, call me BEFORE you begin your first piece if you have questions.

Thank you, 
Bill
609-703-2020

 

 

 

 

Never have hot or otherwise any strong currents of air blowing on the piece while applying Steelike. However, when your done applying you want to get a small current moving OVER the piece.

What if I see faint roller edge lines?

If you applied it as described above and said lines are very shallow/short in appearance, they will lay down, flatten out and dissappear the next day.

As always, call me BEFORE you begin your first piece if you have questions.