Steelike

SATIN 3 Gallon Kit of The Steelike Concrete Sealing System

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SATIN of 3GSSSK
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 NOTE:SEE SMALL SATIN KIT INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADDING PART D

UPDATE: 8/9/2017

 

 

 

Big Announcement and Update to Application Protocol!

 

It's been a few years from the release of the Steelike™ Concrete Sealing system and a lot has been learned. As with the release of anything new, there has been challenges and resolutions.

 

Take for example the glass jars. Had issues with opening part B, they sometimes broke and let air get to part B which was a no-no.

 

Solution: 
Source high quality, chemical resistant plastic jars and put part B into air-tight veterinarian grade plastic syringes.

 

Applying the Steelike™ Sealing System correctly and at the right thickness was not as easy as I wished. Regardless, 100's of artisans have dialed it in but there is an update that makes it much easier.

 

Occasionally some of said challenges consisted of:

 

a) Because this sealing system is not a high-build product, it was hard to get the exact amount of solids equally distributed in a uniform fashion.

 

b) Because I designed the Steelike Sealing System to enhance the color, sometimes one would see areas that were darker or lighter.

 

c) TIME: This one was the most challenging. This system is reactive on many levels and depending on different ambient temperatures, humidity and dew points around the globe, it created different curing rates which sometimes meant you had to hurry.

 

d) Using other sealers or primers to make it easier. Yes, I've had a very small amount of artisans using other products as primers. Why? because they liked the protection but sometimes had subtle color anomalies as mentioned above.

 

Well that's all about to change!

 

Here's how:

 

Using the exact same chemistry and creating a primer.

 

Here is exactly how.

 

1) The original ratios were 1:1:1 , let's say you were making a small kit, you would add all of each of the four ingredients being:
135 grams of Part A
135 grams of Part B
135 Grams of Part C
20 grams of Part D (dry anti-abrasion particles)

 

That's now changing for both the primer coat and second/final coat.

 

Primer: 
As an example if you were making a entire kit. 
135 grams of Part A
135 grams of Part B 
135 Grams of Part C combined with 135 grams of Water
NO Part D

 

Summary as follows:
What ever amount of sealer your making the ratios are as follows:

 

When using as a primer. 
Part A 1
Part B 1
Part C 1
Water same weight as C

 

When using for final coat. 
Part A 1
Part B 1
Part C 1
Water from none to 0.25 (25% of C's weight)

 

Mixing procedure:

 

1)Start by adding Part C's weight in water to Part C and set aside.

 

2)As before, while stirring with Popsicle stick, add the now reduced Part B to part A and blend for 1 minute.

 

Now slowly incorporate the diluted part C into the blending A and B. Meaning you don't want to just dump it in. More so, you want to BLEND it in slowly giving it a chance to become incorporated.

 

The above process should not exceed much more than 2-2.5 minutes.

 

APPLYING PRIMER COAT:

 

This is completely different than the original protocol.

 

1) Using a paint tray and the Wooster 6.5" Microplush Roller Cover, saturate the roller cover and then just roll off enough sealer so when you pick it up it doesn't drip all over. Think of painting a ceiling or wall.

 

Alternatively, you can use the Chapin Spray Bottle but only recommend this if your mix design is extremely dense and tight.

 

2) Starting from one side towards the other, begin rolling the sealer out as evenly as possible with your focus being on just getting the entire piece wet with sealer.

 

3) Once the entire piece is wet, simply back-roll just a little. Do so by rolling on a micro-cloth of lint free rag. Your not trying to squeeze all the sealer off just excess.

 

4) DO NOT OVER ROLL THIS FOR IT IS JUST A PRIMER. YOU ARE NOT TRYING TO MAKE IT PERFECT. (See #5).

 

5) Once the piece dries to the touch, this will vary but average has been 1-2 hours, decide if you are happy with the look so far. If you are jump to step 7.

 

6) If you want to tweak any small roller lines etc., test a small area with 400 grit and sand just a little to make sure it is hard enough. If it is just buzz the entire piece very lightly so that any mechanic anomalies go away. Remember, this is just the primer and color intensities will blend in with the final coat.

 

7) So you either did or did not need to address any mechanic anomalies after you applied the primer coat. In either case you are ready to apply the final/second coat.

 

APPLYING THE FINAL COAT:

 

NOTE: Because you've primed your piece you will get dramatically more coverage on the final coat so sample a few small pieces before calculating coverage. On average you will get 65-75 square feet when mixed as a primer and 135 to 155 square feet as a second coat.

 

1) You can apply the second coat as soon as the primer coat is dry to the touch. If you do this within a few hours after applying the primer coat you do not have to sand. If it is after 12 hours, you will need to sand just a little, as in step 6, and then clean it off.

 

2) Mix ratios:

 

Part A 1 part
Part B 1 part
part C 1 part
add 25% of the weight of part C as water by weight,
Standard amount which is 20 grams per small kit. So if your making a half kit you would use 10 grams.

 

For those of you already familiar with this sealer, you can reduce the water amount or eliminate it completely. It is optional on the second coat but until you dial this sealer in, add at least 15% by weight of the weight of part C.

 

3) Application:

 

a) Using the Chapin Spray Bottle, begin spraying in a small area( approximately 2' x 2') and while rolling (MICROPLUSH) until the roller cover is no longer removing the sealer your spraying or to put it another way, until the roller cover's thirst is quenched (note: saturation occurs after the roller cover drinks 20-22 grams, which is the weight of the roller cover dry)

 

b) Once the roller cover is moving liquid versus removing, continue moving towards the opposite end of your piece and spraying when needed as to keep the roller cover the same wetness which allows it to put down a uniform thickness across the entire piece.

 

c) Once you have the entire top covered, switch to the High-Density Foam roller cover and, starting from one end of the piece, begin long interrupted strokes, first the length of the piece either left to right or right to left) followed by front to back again left to right or right to left.

 

Every time you change your pattern... APPLY LESS PRESSURE. If YOUR FOAM ROLLER BECOMES TOO WET, BACK ROLL IT ON A FLAT MICRO-CLOTH OR LINT FREE RAG.

 

d) Place a small fan as to create an air stream OVER the piece not directly on it.

 

Think of this as sucking vapors from the piece and not letting them back in by pushing them.

 

Important Note:
Every mix design is different, some are very dense and some are more open.

 

If you find that spraying does not allow you to get enough product down when applying the final coat you can, although not recommended unless spraying has been eliminated as an option, use the dip and roll technique as explained above when applying the primer coat.

 

You still use the Microplush roller cover to apply and the foam roller to remove/finish.

 

To sum it up, you're putting down a coat and a half versus two coats or 1 coat.

 

As always, feel free to contact me with any questions.

 

As many of you know I actually answer my phone when possible and if not will email or text you.

 

William T. Kulish

 

www.TheSteelikeStore.com

 

bill@Steelike.com

 

Steelike Gloss and Satin/Semi-Gloss kits are as follows:
These are the weights of the content only and do not include the jar or lid weight.
Part A- 135g
Part B- 135g
Part C- 135g
Part D- 20g DRY

 

 

 

When I released the Steelike Concrete Sealing System I made the statement that "Less is More". What I should have said is once it is dry less is more.

 

You need to get enough product down to initially quench the MicroPlush roller's thirst and then continue to spray product down so you get a uniform thickness over the entire piece. You know it's thick enough when the color pops uniformly
and the entire surface is wet.
Additionally you should see a football/basketball texture which shows you that enough product is down. You will be knocking said texture down AFTERWARDS by back rolling. But again, you first need enough sealer down to allow the chemistry to kick in. Remember, this sealer has a reactive aspect to it also.

 

NEVER use a HVLP gun for it will atomize the sealer and cause it to partially dry before it hits your surface, plus it can trap the anti-abrasion particles or cause them to be distributed incorrectly.

 

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS: 
I've been talking with, now over 100's of successful Steelike concrete sealing system installers. Their feedback is priceless.

 

TOOLS REQUIRED:

 

Wooster Micro Plush Roller Cover # RR314-6½”

 

Chapin Hand Held Pump Spray Bottle #1002 48oz. Red Top (REMOVE THE INLINE FILTER)

 

OPTIONAL: Wooster High Density Foam Roller Cover RR308-6.5 J-Koter (When two people are applying see below)

 

1) Begin by weighing out the amount of the different parts of the Steelike Sealing System.

 

1a) Always add part A to B, mix for 1 minute with the included large Popsicle stick and move aside.

 

2)  Immediately add part D to part C and blend thoroughly. (Less than 30 seconds).

 

3) Combine everything together while mixing, and stir for 1 additional minute MAX.

 

4) Stir in 10 -20% water by weight of PART C. Example: Gloss and Satin’s part C weighs 135 Grams so you would be adding 13-27 grams of water.  NOTE: Start at 10% and increase if you find you need more working time.  The water simply keeps the sealer from flashing off before you have time to remove the football/basketball texture you want to have when first applying to insure the proper thickness of sealer.  Don’t worry, you’ll be removing said texture during the back rolling phase to come.

 

5) While stirring, pour everything into the Chapin Spray Bottle and pump until you cannot pump with one finger.

 

6) Using the Wooster Microplush Roller Cover, pick one spot approximately 2-3 square feet to begin applying. Always swirl the pump bottle while and before spraying…keep it moving.  Begin spraying while rolling this small area until the roller’s thirst is quenched.  This means the roller is no longer absorbing sealer and is beginning to push/spread sealer around versus removing it.

 

7) Once the roller is wet enough, continue spraying while rolling across your piece until the entire piece is uniformally wet and the color has popped the same.  It may look like a very thin layer of skim milk but not heavy cream.

 

8) At this point you should see a little football/basketball texture.  This means you have enough product down.

 

9) BACKROLLING: Now take the Wooster High-Density Foam Roller and back roll, remove off excess sealer onto a flat micro cloth or extremely lint free cloth. Now go back to your piece and begin back rolling in long strokes first length wise and then front to back.  Again roll excess sealer that you are picking up with the roller onto the cloth. The more you back roll the less pressure you will be applying until your last roll which will just be the weight of the roller itself.

 

10) Your done, do not try to pick out hair, a bug or re-roll any small shallow roller lines.  If you applied it as described above any roller lines will go away the next day.

 

11) Place a low velocity fan as to create a slow moving blanket of air OVER the piece not blasting air ON the piece.

 

 

 

 

 

Very important things to remember:

 


1) Mixing time of 1 minute of part A with B is important, not 2, 3 minutes. One minute. Remember, it's going to be sitting/activating for additional time while you are mixing the dry part D into C so one minute maximum. 
TOTAL MIXING TIME = 3 Minutes Maximum

 

So you mix part A and B for 1 minute then C and D for under 1 minute, combine everything, add water then you have 30-40 minutes to spray, roll, roll excess onto a flat, lint free microfiber cloth and then back roll off excess sealer.

 

How do I know how much Steelike concrete sealing system to apply?

 

Answer:
You want to be spraying enough down initially to quench the thirst of the MicroPlush. Do this in a small area, like 3 square feet. Once the MicroPlush roller is distributing/ moving product versus removing it continue spraying while rolling until the entire piece until it is uniformly wet and has a football/basketball texture. It may even have a white low fat milky look to it.

 

Now it's thick enough.

 

Now you will be focusing on flatting/removing the excess/textured sealer by, with the same roller, rolling off the excess sealer that has accumulated on the roller. Do this on the flat microfiber cloth as I described above.

 

NOTE: When you’re at the removing texture stage you want to be fluidly rolling across the entire piece, first length wise and then front to back. Do this slowly and deliberately. Again, long slow strokes not rapid back a fourth rolling.

 

At this stage, the more you roll the less pressure you will be applying.

 

Don't create train tracks by pressing too hard and then chasing them etc.

 

The very slight pressure and rolling off excess sealer will distribute and remove the correct amount of sealer.

 

A fellow artisan is having success having two people applying. He sprays and distributes the sealer as described above while another person back rolls with the 6.5" high density roller. He did this on a reseal of an existing piece after removing the original failing sealer but this method sounds promising for newly created pieces also. Being a one man show I've never tried this approach.

 

What about air moving?

 

Never have hot or otherwise any strong currents of air blowing on the piece while applying Steelike. However, when you’re done applying you want to get a small current moving OVER the piece.

 

What if I see faint roller edge lines?

 

If you applied it as described above and said lines are very shallow/short in appearance, they will lay down, flatten out and disappear the next day.

 

As always, call me BEFORE you begin your first piece if you have questions.

 

Thank you, 
Bill
609-703-2020

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Never have hot or otherwise any strong currents of air blowing on the piece while applying Steelike. However, when your done applying you want to get a small current moving OVER the piece.

What if I see faint roller edge lines?

If you applied it as described above and said lines are very shallow/short in appearance, they will lay down, flatten out and disappear the next day.

As always, call me BEFORE you begin your first piece if you have questions.

 

 

 

 

 

THIS IS THE 3 GALLON KIT! IT IS THE EQUIVALENT OF 25.65 SMALL KITS

COVERAGE WILL BE BETWEEN 1755 TO 1890 SQUARE FEET

THE DISCOUNT IS THE EQUIVILANT OF AN EXTRA 1.25 REGULAR KITS OR A SAVINGS OF $143.75 OFF OF THE ALREADY DISCOUNTED STANDARD KIT.

 

 

Steelike Gloss and Satin/Semi-Gloss kits are as follows:
These are the weights of the content only and do not include the jar or lid weight.
Part A- 135g x25.65
Part B- 135g x 25.65
Part C- 135g x 25.65
Part D- 20g DRY x 25.65

Steelike Matte kits are: NOTE AVAILABLE IN BULK KIT ONLY CONTACT ME DIRECTLY
Part A- 135g x 25.65
Part B- 135g x 25.65
Part C-1- 210g x 25.65
Part D- 43g DRY x25.65

When I released the Steelike Concrete Sealing System I made the statement that "Less is More". What I should have said is once it is dry less is more.

You need to get enough product down to initially quench the MicroPlush roller's thirst and then continue to spray product down so you get a uniform thickness over the entire piece. You know it's thick enough when the color pops uniformly
and the entire surface is wet.
Additionally you should see a football/basketball texture which shows you that enough product is down. You will be knocking said texture down AFTERWARDS by back rolling. But again, you first need enough sealer down to allow the chemistry to kick in. Remember, this sealer has a reactive aspect to it also.

NEVER use a HVLP gun for it will atomize the sealer and cause it to partially dry before it hits your surface, plus it can trap the anti-abrasion particles or cause them to be distributed incorrectly.

Use the recommended Chapin hand-pump bottle only and remember to take off the removable screen filter on the end of the internal tube.
DO: Always be moving the spray bottle to keep everything suspended inside.

Following is clarification:
For pieces less than 6 square feet you spray heavy in a 2-3 square feet first then normally everywhere else.

We need to quench the rollers thirst first until it begins laying down product versus lifting it up then you roll everywhere else.

The goal is to get a uniform wet coating over the entire piece. You'll know you have enough down when everything is darkened the same and you see a white film... kind of like non-fat milk.

You'll also see a basketball/football texture everywhere.

Now you take the same roller and roll off excess onto a lint free cloth or microfiber....
Then you'll back roll just enough, and with very little pressure until you knock down the texture you’re done.

Subtle roller lines go away as it dries.
If you had to apply a second coat you put it on too light
At one coat at proper thickness you will get 65-70 square feet per entire kit.
Now for bigger pieces.... Everything stays the same but you don't spray past 6 square feet...
It will dry before you can roll it out so you start spraying the remaining area AFTER you quench the rollers thirst initially
You’re doing this left to right or right to left not all at once

Here is the mixing and application protocol for the Steelike Concrete Sealing System.

Adding a little water to everything after it's all mixed, based on a percentage of part C by weight, is optional.

UPDATE : We have found that by adding 10% water of the weight of Part C (which for a full kit equal 13.5 grams for satin and gloss or 20 grams for the Stealth/Matte kit) AFTER everything is mixed, helps lay down the sealer better and give you a little more working time.

Here's the finished version for mixing and applying the new Steelike concrete sealing system. You can get the spray bottle and correct Wooster rollers from Trinic or me.
Make sure everything involved such as your piece, sealer and water, if adding, is all within 10-15 degrees of each other. In other words you don't want 50 degree water going into 85 degree sealer on a 100 degree top.

Steelike Sealing Instructions
1) Mix part A

2) Pour part A into a mixing container

3) Pour part B into A and stir thoroughly for 1 minutes let rest, while your mixing parts C and D.

4) Pour part D into part C and mix together, about 1 minute do this while A,B is resting

5) Pour part C and D into the mixed part A,B and stir for 1 minute
The Matte, Satin or Gloss sealer is now ready to use.

IF ADDING OPTIONAL WATER ranging from 5-20% by weight of part C only (see below) add it at this time and mix thoroughly.
We've found that 10% is a good starting point. Weigh this out for we're talking about a tablespoon, 13 grams for Gloss and Satin and 21 grams for the Stealth/Matte kit.

6) Pour the contents into THE SPECIFIED PUMP SPRAYER: NOTE YOU MUST REMOVE THE FILTER ON THE OUTPUT TUBE.
Chapin 1.5 Qt. Model # 1002
Pump it as much as you can 30-40 psi.

USING THE SPECIFIED Wooster 6.5” MicroPlush 3/8” NAP ROLLER:

SPRAYING: You want a splatter versus mist so don't choke off the sprayer too much.
8) Initially you will spray/splatter a bit heavy in the area you will be rolling first. This is needed to quench/neutralize the roller so that it begins distributing sealer versus removing it.
Once the roller is wet enough continue to spray the surface as you roll.
(NOTE: you will need to put on as much as is needed to quench the thirst of the MicroPlush roller initially) and immediately back roll the sealer with a MicroPlush roller. Work in a fluid motion, spray from front of counter to back right to left. Spray as much area as you feel comfortable working with, at this point I usually spray the entire top/area but based on samples that you have tested this sealer with, you can certainly do less until you dial it in., then roll back and forth to work the sealer until it appears even, then re-roll lightly with no pressure, and repeat until the entire surface is coated. SHAKE sprayer each time before you spray.
NOTE: You will need to spray enough of the product down initially as to "QUENCH" the thirst of the MicroPlush roller. Its okay to put down enough product to do this for it is better to slightly over-apply, then remove, then it is to not get enough product down. if you do under-apply don't panic, just spray an additional layer over your piece and finish as described below.

I suggest rolling diagonally once you get a uniform thickness over the entire piece your sealing.
I have been experiencing most success by rolling of excess sealer onto a microfiber cloth or lint free rag and then back rolling to knock down any texture such as "football or basketball" texture. If you still see this continue to step #9.

If you see no "texture" (not sacrificial particle SPECKS) walk away. If you have an equal amount of sealer down any subtle roller lines will go away as the sealer cures.

IF YOU STILL HAVE TOO MUCH BASKETBALL/FOOTBALL TEXTURE.........USING THE SPECIFIED 6” HIGH QUALITY, HIGH DENSITY FOAM ROLLER:
9) Back roll very lightly to even the finish off. The goal here is to just ever so gently assure you have an equal amount of sealer on your piece.
10) After you have applied the sealer and have finished rolling it out, place a low velocity fan above the height of your finished piece(s) and turn it on. The goal is to have air gently moving OVER the piece and blowing directly ON the piece. This can be a 8" fan. You’re doing this to push the carbon dioxide gas that most sealers create, AWAY from your newly sealer piece.

***OPTION: ADDING WATER:
All mix designs are of different densities, porosity, and chemical makeup and absorb sealers differently.
This sealing system can be customized by adding water, by weight, to part “C” only.
Dose water 5% to 25%.
We recommend testing your mix design prior to sealing an entire project. If you’re in doubt adding 10% is a good starting point. For Gloss and Sating that would be 13.5 grams for stealth that would be 21 grams.
RECOMMENDATIONS:
This is not a moisture cured system. Therefor humidity is not required for it to cure.
As with most sealing systems, we recommend it be applied in a temperature range of 50-85 degrees when possible. Higher temperatures may accelerate the sealing system and decrease your finishing time.

Never over work this sealing system. Less is more with the Steelike Concrete Sealing System. You are not going for a high build coating, more so the goal is to equally distribute the sealer over your entire piece.

Never have air blowing directly onto your piece as you are applying your sealer. Air flowing over the piece is highly encouraged.

POT LIFE: Depending on temperature and humidity the average pot life, once all parts are mixed, is 45 minutes.

If you are too thin you will see lines in the concrete, too thick you will see excess sealer lines on the edge of the roller.

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